Havana & Vinãles

10-01-2025

After a hearty breakfast, we hop into a taxi bound for Viñales. The three-hour drive gives us time to unwind from Havana’s chaos. A quick roadside document check is our only interruption. Along the way, we spot people waiting under overpasses—makeshift bus stops, according to our driver. Hitchhikers are everywhere; public transport here is unreliable.

The final stretch is a bumpy ride through pothole-ridden roads and villages where we silently hope we’re not staying. Relief washes over us as we arrive at a charming guesthouse with a lush garden. The hosts welcome us warmly, and at 24°C, the weather feels perfect. There’s a pool, but the broken ladder makes it useless—not a problem with our packed itinerary.

After settling in, we grab lunch and take a quick stroll through the village before our birdwatching tour. As we wander through stunning landscapes, Havana already feels far away. We spot vibrant birds—Cuban Emeralds, Warblers, a Cuban Trogon, even the elusive Cuban Tody. The Great Lizard-Cuckoo calls in the distance, but we never catch sight of it. Sunset comes and goes unnoticed; we’re too mesmerized by nature.

By the time we head back, darkness has fallen, and the power is out. Navigating the main road, we finally reach our guesthouse, where a lavish €12 dinner awaits. A feast, considering many here survive on ration coupons. Exhausted from our 16,000-step day, we eat gratefully and fall into a deep sleep.